Terremoto

14 de Octubre

Juggling Mary would soon need a miracle to avoid third degree burns

The moment you cross the border into Chile, from Bolivia, is the moment you step back into the modern world. The rock-strewn road gives way to purpose built highways, complete with street signs and motorists who actually abide by road rules. I was stunned to stop at a crosswalk and not have to yield to a vehicle seemingly intent on crossing another pedestrian off his list. Customs was a pleasure, in fact the official smiled at me and not because he sensed any opportunity for some cash.

We arrived into San Pedro de Atacama, a small town smack bank in the middle of the driest desert in the world. Houses and buildings are typically adobe or mud brick and lend themselves to a charming and ambient mood like that of your favourite restaurant. It is an easy place to traverse the sandy alleys on foot, checking out the cave like cafes and bars, and popping in for a bite.

Throughout South America, lunch, or Almuerzo, is the big deal. Most places in any city, town or village, will offer a Menu del Dia, Meal of the Day. Typically, this ranges from $1-$5 depending on the country, but the lower end of the scale may give you a plate of rice with some hastily boiled chicken and side of salad (see two bits of carrot and a couple of corn kernels). And after a while, you just get sick to death of the same old crap. So with trepidation, we scoured the streets looking for menus of value, because the other noticeable thing when you cross the border is the sudden increase in prices. People in Chile have shinier shoes than most other folk. Things have doubled, but the quality has increased in fathoms, but is still superb value compared to other countries. So, expecting rice, chicken, beans and some stale bread rolls, just more expensive, we were astounded to find, and taste, menus of the day that included, pumpkin soup, smoked salmon, freshly baked breads, lasagnes, fillet steak or baked salmon, all washed down with the iciest beers we have drunk in a long time. And all cooked with perfection. Chile welcomed us to their kitchen, and for the next few days we were there, we would enjoy even better fare.

The shadowlands were dangerous places for tourists with paranoia

Keep walking until you see the white building, thats out hostel

Juggling Marys burns were quite spectacular

Being in the middle of the desert and far away from interrupting lights, San Pedro is naturally an ideal spot for a bit of star gazing. Not in the famous people sense, I imagine not too many presidents would vacation here, but astronomically.  We joined a tour that headed into the darkness late at night, hosted by Chile’s best space nerd, and his expensive looking telescope. We looked at Mars through his lens, explored galaxies and supernovas, and wished upon starts crashing to their deaths. We toasted the universe under the influence of pisco sours, discussing why it’s a Chilean drink and not a Peruvian tipple. For years the two countries have been arguing over ownership. Peru says since the grape was first found in its region, named Pisco, it should be theirs. I’m not yet sure as to what the Chilean claim is, I think that as they think that because they make the better one, then it should be theirs, in their opinion. But I like to be the judge of such things and will no doubt investigate during my travels.

Bus trips are at times painful enough, but 24 hours inside a tin can is not an incredibly ideal way to travel. We took this method to Santiago, travelling day and night, past sunsets at the Valley of the Moon in the desert, and along the Chilean Pacific coast, all in our semi sleeper seats. However, the welcoming arms of Santiago, Chile’s capital, greeted and refreshed us from our public transport induced stupor.

Santiago is criminally underrated. Guidebooks don’t seem to sell you its benefits; the grand plazas, the well-kept public parks, the historic buildings and facades. They seem to be on a mission to compare this gem to other cities such as Paris or Buenos Aires. Admittedly, the incessant morning smog that clouds the views of the Andes on a daily basis does take a small bit of the punch drunk effect, but when the air clears in the afternoon to reveal blue skies upon the city, you look up and around and ask yourself where else can you admire a vista of snow capped peaks of the famous range embracing the city and its people?

View from hostel room. Staff didn't realise we weren't supposed to be staying there until too late.

Ancient catapults. Heavy

Horses, awesome in staring contests

We scored an incredible hostel, The Plaza de Armas, which as the name suggests, is on the Plaza de Armas, the main square in the city. We had our own mini apartment for the night, overlooking the action. We could see from our balcony, six floors up, the goings on of daily Santiago life.  Be it the buskers, the religious nuts, the chess players or the famous street dogs that make you their owner for a few hours by following you when you take a stroll, all was very entertaining. As are the constant protests, demonstrations or just acts from local nutbags. It seems that a favourite pastime of Chileans, especially students, is to complain bout something. Yes, I know, a student complaining? Stop the press!

University fees too high! Having to work to earn money! Not enough free body lice lotion! Outrage!

Needless to say, there were a few happening during our time, all pretty peaceful affairs, but a good opportunity to get close to them and wish for the police to set one of their German Shepherds onto them, just for a laugh.

We took a walking tour around the city, which was one of the highlights of our trip so far. And not because it was free (although tips are given). It was run by a local Chilean student (I now feel bad about the last comments), Franco, who’s knowledge on the city, the arts and entertainment, the history and its people, was second to none.  He also explains Chilean food and where the best places to try it are. He even introduced us to Café con Piernas, or Coffee with Legs. Essentially, these are coffee shops. But not your Starbucks staid same shit everywhere types or your Amsterdam experiences, but Chile’s businessman take. It’s a normal café, albeit with blackened windows and disco lights. Skimpy waitresses, wearing only a little to cover her birthday gifts, serve the espressos. But occasionally, they have what is called a “Happy Minute”. During these sixty seconds of sunshine, the “waitress” loses her gear, and performs. The doors are locked, so no one can leave, so you are forced to look at nakedness until you either finish your coffee or top it up with cream. They say that most businessmen in the area stop for five minute breaks every half an hour.

Even on smog filled days, the Andes tried to show their face. 

The dreaded stone buskers had even tried to perform outside the church

Santiago, a good placed to be hungry

The walking tour was scheduled for 4 hours, but it lasted about 14. After the completion, the group of tourists stuck together, and visited the main sight, Cerro San Cristobal, which is another giant religious statue at the top of a hill, in a beautiful park overlooking the city. We figure that all major cities in South America must have gotten a great deal on bulk orders of these things, as most places we have seen have one.

After that, we hit the Bellavista area of Santiago, famous for its cheap bars and superb restaurants. Again, we have to thank the students again, for existing so that we can have $3 litres of beer. And the beer here is good, as are the wines; Chile is of course quite famous for its quality, and countless vineyards surround the city. We didn’t visit any, as we will concentrate on that in Argentina, and anyway, an earthquake hit us.

Santiago has this knockout drink called the Terremoto, which is Spanish for earthquake. It’s a concoction of a pint of white wine, pineapple juice and finished off with a dollop of ice cream. It tastes like it sounds, and is right off the Richter scale. Just you try to stand up immediately after having one, the shakes appear immediately, even in this seismic city. You can also order the Tsunami, which is simply a double Terremoto. All for only a few bucks.

As you can imagine, after a natural disaster and a few aftershocks of beers, it was quite a stumble back to the hotel, but even so, it was a long a gloriously lit promenade. Lucky the building that housed us had the old gate style lifts that are operated by an attendant in a fancy suit, as I couldn’t even see the buttons to go up.

The people of Santiago are a friendly lot, and quite often wont think twice about stopping you in the street for a chat, to find out a bit more about you, and practice some English. One such kind and friendly man was our hot dog seller. Fast food in Chile is called Fuente de Soda, small shacks that sell empanadas (like pasties but more awesome), roast pork rolls and hot dogs, called Completos in Chile. Everything including a soda or beer is a few dollars, but the shacks are set up so they encourage conversation with the staff, as no one takes away, it’s a complete social event. All through the day, citizens from all walks of life stop by to grab a snack and a chat, and we were lucky enough to find a cheery vendor who had an interest in collecting foreign currency, so we donated some of our collection thus far to him.

The happy waitress could not even sell this shit

Illiterate map makers were common in town

Chile is a very odd shaped country, just quite a long thing really, so any onward travel usually involves going into Argentina first to get somewhere else. Our next destination is Mendoza, over the border into Argentina, for some wine and wine. And maybe some wine.