Monday, 13 August 2012

The Middle of The World

12 de Agosto






We are in the middle of the earth.
Quito, Ecuador, is located only a few degrees shy of the Equator, but today we took a bus north to true zero.

For a few minutes or so, we kind of didn’t exist. We didn’t belong to either the northern or southern hemisphere.  You stand on the exact line of the Equator, 0 degrees latitude.



Quito nightlife

Boiling an egg in Ecaudor is not done using traditional methods

The Guinea pigs made a tasty smack after a day of sightseeing. Even tastier with rockets up their bums




The main point in town is Mitad del Mundo, or Middle of the World. The monument is actually about 300m, so bugger all in degrees terms, from the true Equator. Most tourists go here, and get the obligatory foot in one hemisphere photo, but they don’t realise that they are still in the southern hemisphere. So you walk up a dusty road to what looks like someone’s cactus garden with drunken looking locals lying about the front yard. For $4, you pay a guide to show you around and perform crazy experiments that prove the coolness and validity of the imaginary line. Let me explain;

1      Water Experiment, or the Coriolis Theorem.
      I thought this was a disease, but to explain what it is, take your laptop or I phone into the toilet. Now flush it.  Not the electronics. Just the water. Poo is optional. In the southern hemisphere (Australia, Argentina, and that made up place called New Zealand or something) the water and optional contents will disappear clockwise. In the northern hemisphere, this will flush counter clockwise, so Ireland and USA, check this out. If you are in Egypt where you shit in the Nile, just imagine things. Now if you flush a toilet right on the Equator, the water will run straight down the hole. Try this experiment with a sink and running water. Please don’t pee in the sinks unless you are a bogan Australian at a horse racing carnival and you have had a dozen cans of export.

2     The Sobriety Test.
If you have ever been unlucky to be pulled over by a policeman and asked to perform a roadside sobriety test, where you walk along a line, arms out and eyes closed, then this is for you. Sober, this is easy. One foot in front of the other, arms out, eyes closed. Now right on the Equator, at 0 degrees remember, this is impossible and you will lose your licence immediately and your car will be impounded. It seems the north is fighting south for your attention, and sooner or later, usually after four steps, you will sway, and likely, fall. But, only a smidgen of a degree away from the line, no problem at all. Oddly enough, most participants fall to north


Quito hairdressers are best avoided

Once the football teams end of season trip photos hit Facebook,  clubs would have to apologise

The lollipop lady always thought of the children's safety, even on the Equator





   Wrestling.
Find the skinniest, weakest person you know. Make a ball with two clenched fists and hold them at arms lengths in front of you. Now ask Bones to press down on your arms, you will find they will struggle to make an impact and will probably give up soon enough and return to their chess game or physics homework. Now on the Equator, you will look like the weakling as El Nerdo embarrasses you with his pseudo strength and basks in the glory of his superiority, until you return to your preferred hemisphere and beat him to a pulp.

     Eggs, scrambled?
Try to balance an egg on a nail, with about a 2cm wide head. Hard-boiled or fresh is fine. You will find it’s actually very easy. Now try to do this on the Equator. Impossible, except for the local yokel in town who managed to show up the tourists time and time again. I think he had glue




Kylie tried to blame it on the Equator, but she was spotted in the Tequila bar minutes before

The Guinea pigs were very cute before they were barbecued





The site of the true Equator is actually on indigenous lands, and has some weird and brutal history. Firstly, these were the guys that knew that this exact point was Zero. Using equinoxes and sundials, they were pretty smart. They also used to chop the heads off enemies, boil them, fill them with sand and fruits, a kind of middle age embalming process, and shrink them in the sun, stick some rope through their festering ears, and wear them as a cool necklace. These are now for sale at the local craft markets.
The locals also used the bury their women alive if the husband died, in the belief that one cant live without the other, so the women should rot in a sandy grave.
Not a bad option, if your missus wont let you watch the footy or have another can, then just fake your own death, and problem sorted.
 She wasn’t alone in the grave though, they used to bury her in a basket with her worldly possessions and trinkets Probably also a good time to throw in the washing and ironing as well.
The tribes still exist, and actually build houses and huts right on zero degrees. They also attend local parties in traditional costumes, which is a necklace made of the heads of beheaded shrunken animals, and a reverse G string, which for men, actually holds the penis up to his bellybutton. Going to the toilet is very difficult, but luckily they don’t wear t-shirts.

Quito is a city high in the Andes, population of approx. two million. It’s the oldest city in South America, and contains some mighty fine churches. But they are not easily photographed, for fear of having your camera robbed while taking a snap, such is its reputation.
The nightlife here is excellent though. There are as many bars, perhaps to rival Dublin, and loads of the cosy hole in the wall bars, to rival Lisbon or Melbourne, but with lives salsa bands. Taxi is the main way to get around, and all hotel owners recommend this as the only sure safe way. It’s not incredibly heartening when a hostel owner wishes you luck when you leave for the day, and asks for your next of kins contact details to forward gear.
We have been staying in hostels on our journey, but we did have one night at a 4-5 star joint, right in the centre of town, and enjoyed steaming hot showers, clean sheets, lack of other traveller noise and the reduced risk of bathroom borne diseases. It as like a holiday away from a holiday and was much appreciated. But now it’s back to basics, starting tonight with a trip to the Amazon rainforest.

There is a huge craft market outside of town, in Otavalo. It’s where you can buy clothes, souvenirs, bits and bobs, and hats. I did buy a Panama hat, which are actually Ecuadorian, despite the name. Kylie picked up a cosy scarf, for prices much less that elsewhere. The road to the market is an eye opener, and included locals chasing pigs around a bus stop, guinea pig restaurants on the side of the road, and a massive wedding, which was held, inside a panel beaters shops. The bride actually walked up the aisle, which was decorated with mufflers rims and was whisked away to her honeymoon on a trolley jack. Only in Ecuador

So farewell Quito, but now off to your heart, the Amazon and piranhas and creepy crawlies


Tasmanian family photos were very difficult to organise

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