Viajar el mundo: Journey

14 de Julio

People travel for many different reasons. There may be monuments to see, to tick off the “to do” list. There are family get togethers where many become one around the world. Some simply travel to be tourists and say they have been and done that. For us, it’s about experiences, the journeys we take to get to our destinations. Over the last five days we have shared something we are unlikely to ever forget.

It was every palm trees dream to one day be a roof

Its not often you decide to travel between continents by sea. It’s even rarer that the sea is the idyll that is the Caribbean. The opportunity of adventure arose a few weeks ago when we were discussing getting from Central to South America. Do we take the easy flight option and roam around stale airports before falling into a taxi to our hostel? Easy, but hardly an experience you would write home about unless you were lucky enough to avoid paying eight dollars for a bottle of water or you witnessed an awesome mountain panorama from window seat 7A

We had heard of yachts plying the route from Panama to Cartagena in Colombia, and decided to go along, and invest five days in the crossing.

The puppy fish was very difficult to reel in on a hand line

The triangle reunion struggled for numbers

After meeting a crew member and other passengers in Panama, it was time to stock up on beer, rum and snacks before a 4am rise ahead of a three hour 4WD journey towards Carti port in Panama, followed by a twenty minute canoe ride to the mouth of the Caribbean’s San Blas Islands, where our catamaran, the Nacar Sailing Koala, was docked and waiting.

The Nacar was skippered by Fabian, Captain Fantastic from Colombia. His daughter Crisitina was the chef and second in charge. The adventurers, or passengers, were a mixed bunch of Australians, Norwegians, Americans, Irish, Colombian and British, twelve in total, and all sharing the sense of paradise, adventure and expectations to come.

Pole dancing was included in the ticket price

The rookie captain would soon drive into the reef

For the next three days we would roam leisurely around deserted and scarcely inhabited islands, swimming, snorkelling and canoeing about. Those islands that are inhabited, are done so by the local Kuna folk, who are pretty much automated and don’t see much of the government. They make a living off the passing crews and passengers from selling trinkets and coconuts. They are also the main fisherman around the place, and provide the buckets of lobsters and crabs for about $10-$20. We would dine on freshly caught fish and lobster nightly, such was the life.

Budgies were smuggled quite frequently between islands

Scientists could not explain when the mutant crabs began to grow feet

We would laze about on deck, sinking ice-cold beers or cheap Panamanian Grandfather rum. The toughest thing we could possibly do is float idly in the clear blue waters, searching, asking, but returning empty handed, at what in the world at that present time could be more perfect than the sounds of lapping waves against your body. At night, the cool refreshing breeze would filter through the cabins, simply as a reminder of your pleasant day and promises of tomorrow. Other activities would involve walking around the islands and lazing on pristine beaches, those of the purest and finest sands. Or simply getting to know your fellow traveller, long conversations

Then came the open sea. At 7pm on Wednesday night, after another glorious lobster feast, it was time to set sail for Colombia across ocean, open to the full brunt of the elements with no protection from the islands. Within an hour some had already removed the crustaceans from their digestive tracts and even the best amounts of seasickness pills could not prevent the colouring of the sea. I myself was forced to lay down wishing that the promise of spending the next forty hours at sea was only a joke, but luckily enough, those Dramamine saved us and we got through the night without a spew. We were even able to stand night watch from midnight to 3am, looking out for lights and probably pirates while the captain took the opportunity for some shuteye. The sea had calmed by this stage, and it was magical, just myself and Kylie at the helm, everyone else asleep, as we sailed by the moonlight, together, under a canvas of stars, surrounded by the intimate silence of darkness.

Incognitio, the photo crashing squirrel would appear in boats ready to ruin pictures.

The second day we sailed for the majority of the time under friendlier conditions, although in the morning things were still quite rocky on board. If you can imagine eating a bowl of cornflakes with a straw while sitting upside down on a see saw in the rain, that’s what sitting down to breakfast is like when the waves are that little bit higher. But things settled later in the day, and for once the cards didn’t blow off the table. There are a few sea creatures having a nice game of UNO right about now.

The night was going along nicely, calm and ahead of schedule thanks to a generous current and tail wind, until approximately 2am, when a huge swell hit and battered the boat for a short while. Those that left the room vents open would regret the decision as salty water gushed into the cabins, soaking beds and clothes, and those that were in them. Kylie, on watch at the time, returned inside to see a fish lying in the hallway, not knowing if it was to be returned to the sea or to be kippered into breakfast. The toilet was also flooded. Clothes and an oar from the canoe were lost overboard. But moments later, calm and tranquillity returned, the sea had made its point.

A little after 6am on that Friday morning, after five days of adventure, including 36 hours on open sea, with the sun rising and welcoming us with her warmth, we sailed towards Cartagena, and into South America. We stepped off the boat, and into the arms of Colombia. The intense heat only matched by the incredible friendly smiles that Cartageneros seem to wear on a natural, permanent basis. It is our feeling we will spend a little more time here. Because it’s a journey. Not a destination.